Species

Angelfish care guide

Pterophyllum scalare

The angelfish reaches an adult length of 12 cm to 15.2 cm and develops deep body depth with trailing dorsal and anal fins. Provide a tank length of at least 90 cm, with tall dimensions giving clearance for its shape. Maintain water temperatures between 24–30 °C, feed balanced meals twice daily, and avoid housing them alongside active fin nippers or bite-sized fish.The angelfish reaches an adult length of 5 in to 6 in and develops deep body depth with trailing dorsal and anal fins. Provide a tank length of at least 35 in, with tall dimensions giving clearance for its shape. Maintain water temperatures between 75–86 °F, feed balanced meals twice daily, and avoid housing them alongside active fin nippers or bite-sized fish.[1][2][7]

Angelfish

Photo: Rjcastillo · CC BY 4.0

Tank length
90 cm35 in
Start with
1
Temperature
24–30 °C75–86 °F
pH
5.5–7.8
Adult size
12 cm5 in
Lifespan
5–10 yrs

Angelfish tank size

Plan for a tank length of at least 90 cm for an angelfish. Seriously Fish recommends a 100 cm tank base, which provides extra physical space for swimming and accommodating aquatic plants alongside growing adults.Plan for a tank length of at least 35 in for an angelfish. Seriously Fish recommends a about 3 ft (39 in) tank base, which provides extra physical space for swimming and accommodating aquatic plants alongside growing adults.[1]

Vertical room is just as critical as length. Provide a tank height of 50 cm, as recommended by Seriously Fish for adults, because their long dorsal and anal fins need vertical clearance beyond basic horizontal swimming margins.Vertical room is just as critical as length. Provide a tank height of 20 in, as recommended by Seriously Fish for adults, because their long dorsal and anal fins need vertical clearance beyond basic horizontal swimming margins.[1]

Angelfish water parameters

Keep your water temperature stable within 24–30 °C, picking a consistent point that also matches any shared inhabitants. Maintain a practical pH range of 6.0–7.4 and a general hardness within 1–15 dGH.Keep your water temperature stable within 75–86 °F, picking a consistent point that also matches any shared inhabitants. Maintain a practical pH range of 6.0–7.4 and a general hardness within 1–15 dGH.[1]

Fully establish your biological filter before introducing angelfish to the aquarium. Adult cichlids produce significantly more metabolic waste than small juveniles, so monitor ammonia and nitrite concentrations closely after adding new stock or increasing daily feeding amounts.Fully establish your biological filter before introducing angelfish to the aquarium. Adult cichlids produce significantly more metabolic waste than small juveniles, so monitor ammonia and nitrite concentrations closely after adding new stock or increasing daily feeding amounts.[3]

Feeding angelfish

Feed your angelfish twice daily, offering an amount they consume within about two minutes. Provide quality tropical flakes or sinking pellets as a daily base, and rotate thawed bloodworm, daphnia, or brine shrimp into the schedule for variety.Feed your angelfish twice daily, offering an amount they consume within about two minutes. Provide quality tropical flakes or sinking pellets as a daily base, and rotate thawed bloodworm, daphnia, or brine shrimp into the schedule for variety.[1][2]

Keep meal sizes modest even if your angelfish rushes to the front glass every time you approach. An eager feeding response indicates normal curiosity, but a fish's willingness to eat does not reveal its actual nutritional requirement.Keep meal sizes modest even if your angelfish rushes to the front glass every time you approach. An eager feeding response indicates normal curiosity, but a fish's willingness to eat does not reveal its actual nutritional requirement.[2][3]

Angelfish behaviour

Expect a typical adult length around 12 cm, with larger specimens reaching 15.2 cm. Deep body profiles and extended vertical fins make these cichlids far more substantial in physical presence than their base horizontal length suggests.Expect a typical adult length around 5 in, with larger specimens reaching 6 in. Deep body profiles and extended vertical fins make these cichlids far more substantial in physical presence than their base horizontal length suggests.[1]

Watch your group closely as individuals mature and form pairs. Fish that coexisted calmly as juveniles often begin defending territory aggressively once breeding begins. Plan on a five to ten year lifespan, though some healthy fish survive longer.Watch your group closely as individuals mature and form pairs. Fish that coexisted calmly as juveniles often begin defending territory aggressively once breeding begins. Plan on a five to ten year lifespan, though some healthy fish survive longer.[1][6]

Angelfish tank mates

Bronze corydorasBronze corydoras make a peaceful bottom group when shared temperature parameters suit both species. make a peaceful bottom group when shared temperature parameters suit both species. Bristlenose plecosBristlenose plecos offer another robust bottom-dwelling option. Provide these bottom dwellers with their own dedicated shelters and separate feeding zones. offer another robust bottom-dwelling option. Provide these bottom dwellers with their own dedicated shelters and separate feeding zones.[1][2]

Adult deep-bodied characins like Adult deep-bodied characins like black phantom tetrasblack phantom tetras and and rosy tetrasrosy tetras work well in the midwater when grown large enough to avoid predation. Maintain each species in its own full shoal while leaving open swimming volume for everyone. work well in the midwater when grown large enough to avoid predation. Maintain each species in its own full shoal while leaving open swimming volume for everyone.[1]

Do not house angelfish with Do not house angelfish with neon tetrasneon tetras, which become natural prey as the cichlids reach adult size. Keep , which become natural prey as the cichlids reach adult size. Keep cherry shrimpcherry shrimp out of the aquarium for the same reason, as they present easy hunting targets. out of the aquarium for the same reason, as they present easy hunting targets.[1][7]

Avoid keeping Avoid keeping tiger barbstiger barbs in the same community display. These active fish create a severe hazard by persistently nipping an angelfish's extended dorsal and anal fins, which causes painful physical damage and triggers bacterial vulnerability. in the same community display. These active fish create a severe hazard by persistently nipping an angelfish's extended dorsal and anal fins, which causes painful physical damage and triggers bacterial vulnerability.[1][7][4]

Usually fine together

Avoid with

  • Cherry shrimp

    Angelfish may eat Cherry shrimp and their youngAngelfish may eat Cherry shrimp and their young

  • Neon tetra

    Angelfish may eat Neon tetra when small enough to swallowAngelfish may eat Neon tetra when small enough to swallow

  • Tiger barb

    Tiger barb may nip the long fins of AngelfishTiger barb may nip the long fins of Angelfish

  • American flagfish

    American flagfish may nip AngelfishAmerican flagfish may nip Angelfish

  • Blind cave tetra

    Blind cave tetra may nip AngelfishBlind cave tetra may nip Angelfish

  • Buenos Aires tetra

    Buenos Aires tetra may nip AngelfishBuenos Aires tetra may nip Angelfish

  • Butterfly splitfin

    Butterfly splitfin may nip AngelfishButterfly splitfin may nip Angelfish

  • Chinese barb

    Chinese barb may nip AngelfishChinese barb may nip Angelfish

  • Colombian tetra

    Colombian tetra may nip AngelfishColombian tetra may nip Angelfish

  • Red eye tetra

    Red eye tetra may nip AngelfishRed eye tetra may nip Angelfish

  • Silvertip tetra

    Silvertip tetra may nip AngelfishSilvertip tetra may nip Angelfish

  • Ticto barb

    Ticto barb may nip AngelfishTicto barb may nip Angelfish

Breeding angelfish

Angelfish deposit their eggs onto clean upright surfaces, including broad plant leaves, flat slate pieces, or the aquarium glass. A bonded pair thoroughly cleans their selected site, guards the clutch, and protects the hatched wrigglers.Angelfish deposit their eggs onto clean upright surfaces, including broad plant leaves, flat slate pieces, or the aquarium glass. A bonded pair thoroughly cleans their selected site, guards the clutch, and protects the hatched wrigglers.[1]

Prepare fry foods before the young absorb their yolk reserves and become free-swimming. Offer newly hatched brine shrimp once they start swimming actively, followed by appropriately sized micro fry foods as the brood matures.Prepare fry foods before the young absorb their yolk reserves and become free-swimming. Offer newly hatched brine shrimp once they start swimming actively, followed by appropriately sized micro fry foods as the brood matures.[1]

Angelfish health problems

Ich produces visible small white spots over the skin and fins, accompanied by gravel rubbing or laboured breathing. This external parasite frequently enters displays on new arrivals showing no visible outward signs, so quarantine all fish for 30 days and never share unsterilised nets or equipment.Ich produces visible small white spots over the skin and fins, accompanied by gravel rubbing or laboured breathing. This external parasite frequently enters displays on new arrivals showing no visible outward signs, so quarantine all fish for 30 days and never share unsterilised nets or equipment.[5]

Fin rot causes ragged, eroding fin margins that may exhibit bloody red streaks. Physical trauma from aggressive tank mates and dirty water invite opportunistic bacterial infections. Remove persistent fin-nipping companions, run water tests, and correct lapsed maintenance routines.Fin rot causes ragged, eroding fin margins that may exhibit bloody red streaks. Physical trauma from aggressive tank mates and dirty water invite opportunistic bacterial infections. Remove persistent fin-nipping companions, run water tests, and correct lapsed maintenance routines.[4]

Pop-eye causes one or both eyes to protrude unnaturally from the eye socket. Underlying causes range from internal bacterial infections to poor water quality. Inspect ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels immediately, observe the fish for concurrent symptoms, and reduce stress through clean conditions.Pop-eye causes one or both eyes to protrude unnaturally from the eye socket. Underlying causes range from internal bacterial infections to poor water quality. Inspect ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels immediately, observe the fish for concurrent symptoms, and reduce stress through clean conditions.[4]

Male or female?

Do not depend on body size or forehead profile to sex angelfish reliably. Physical differences remain ambiguous outside active spawning windows. When a pair deposits eggs, examine the visible genital papilla: the male displays a noticeably smaller, more pointed organ than the female.Do not depend on body size or forehead profile to sex angelfish reliably. Physical differences remain ambiguous outside active spawning windows. When a pair deposits eggs, examine the visible genital papilla: the male displays a noticeably smaller, more pointed organ than the female.[1]

Questions

Are angelfish difficult to take care of?

No, provided you satisfy their space requirements and water conditions. angelfish need a tank length of at least 90 cm, stable water temperatures between 24–30 °C, and established biological filtration to cope with the heavy waste produced by adult cichlids.No, provided you satisfy their space requirements and water conditions. angelfish need a tank length of at least 35 in, stable water temperatures between 75–86 °F, and established biological filtration to cope with the heavy waste produced by adult cichlids.[1][3]

What fish to avoid with angelfish?

Avoid small prey species and notorious fin nippers. Do not keep Avoid small prey species and notorious fin nippers. Do not keep neon tetrasneon tetras or or cherry shrimpcherry shrimp, which angelfish readily consume. Likewise, exclude , which angelfish readily consume. Likewise, exclude tiger barbstiger barbs, as they persistently bite and damage long angelfish fins., as they persistently bite and damage long angelfish fins.[1][7]

How to tell if angelfish is happy?

Look for calm behaviour, clear eyes, unblemished fins, and steady appetite. Signs of distress include white spots, clamped or ragged fins with red streaks, protruding eyes, rubbing against decor, or rapid breathing, all of which point to parasites, bacteria, or degraded water quality.Look for calm behaviour, clear eyes, unblemished fins, and steady appetite. Signs of distress include white spots, clamped or ragged fins with red streaks, protruding eyes, rubbing against decor, or rapid breathing, all of which point to parasites, bacteria, or degraded water quality.[5][4]

Can I keep just one angelfish?

Yes, you can house a single angelfish. While juveniles often share space peacefully, mature adults develop territorial behaviour, especially when pairing up. A single specimen avoids territory conflicts and does well in a tank at least 90 cm long.Yes, you can house a single angelfish. While juveniles often share space peacefully, mature adults develop territorial behaviour, especially when pairing up. A single specimen avoids territory conflicts and does well in a tank at least 35 in long.[1]

Can I keep just two angelfish?

Yes, but you must monitor them closely as they mature. Fish that live peacefully when young may defend territory aggressively if they form a bonded pair. Providing a tank at least 90 cm to 100 cm long gives them room to manage boundaries.Yes, but you must monitor them closely as they mature. Fish that live peacefully when young may defend territory aggressively if they form a bonded pair. Providing a tank at least 35 in to about 3 ft (39 in) long gives them room to manage boundaries.[1]

Sources

  1. Pterophyllum "scalare" (Angelfish) — Seriously Fish. Accessed 2026-10-05.
  2. What to feed your fish — RSPCA. Accessed 2026-10-05.
  3. Ammonia in Aquatic Systems — UF/IFAS Extension. Accessed 2026-10-05.
  4. Frequently asked questions on treating sick fish — Practical Fishkeeping. Accessed 2026-10-05.
  5. Ichthyophthirius multifiliis (White Spot) Infections in Fish — UF/IFAS Extension. Accessed 2026-10-05.
  6. How Long Should My Fish Live? — Practical Fishkeeping. Accessed 2026-10-05.
  7. Betta Care Guide — Aqueon. Accessed 2026-10-05.

Written from the sources above. Not yet reviewed by an aquarist.

Data used by the planner
Temperature24–30AqAdvisor (aqadvisor.com), retrieved 2026-10-04; agrees with FishBase (fishbase.se), retrieved 2026-10-04 · medium confidence
pH5.5–7.8AqAdvisor (aqadvisor.com), retrieved 2026-10-04; agrees with FishBase (fishbase.se), retrieved 2026-10-04 · medium confidence
Hardness (dGH)1–15AqAdvisor (aqadvisor.com), retrieved 2026-10-04 · low confidence
OriginTropical Americas or Africacurated-v0 (needs expert review) · low confidence
Beginner friendlyNocurated-v0 (needs expert review) · medium confidence
Care levelmoderatecurated-v0 (needs expert review) · medium confidence
Activitymoderatecurated-v0 (needs expert review) · medium confidence
Swimming levelmiddlecurated-v0 (needs expert review) · medium confidence
Temperamentsemi aggressivecurated-v0 (needs expert review) · medium confidence
Nips finsNocurated-v0 (needs expert review) · medium confidence
Long finsYescurated-v0 (needs expert review) · medium confidence
TerritorialYescurated-v0 (needs expert review) · medium confidence
Lives in groupsNocurated-v0 (needs expert review) · medium confidence
Minimum group1curated-v0 (needs expert review) · medium confidence
Dietomnivorecurated-v0 (needs expert review) · medium confidence
Lifespan (years)5–10curated-v0 (needs expert review) · low confidence
Months to adult size24curated-v0 (needs expert review) · low confidence
Safe with plantsYescurated-v0 (needs expert review) · medium confidence
Minimum tank length90curated-v0 (needs expert review) · medium confidence