Cherry shrimp care guide

Cherry shrimp tank size

Choose a tank length of at least 30 cm, and give your shrimp a larger aquarium whenever space permits. A larger volume of water changes temperature and chemistry more slowly, which makes maintaining a steady environment simpler for a new keeper.Choose a tank length of at least 12 in, and give your shrimp a larger aquarium whenever space permits. A larger volume of water changes temperature and chemistry more slowly, which makes maintaining a steady environment simpler for a new keeper.^[2][4]

Equip the tank with a gentle sponge filter or cover your power filter intake with a fine intake sponge. Tiny shrimp will otherwise get pulled into moving impellers.Equip the tank with a gentle sponge filter or cover your power filter intake with a fine intake sponge. Tiny shrimp will otherwise get pulled into moving impellers.^[1][4]

Allow the aquarium to mature thoroughly before stocking your colony. Clean surfaces in newly established tanks lack the biofilm and microscopic growth that provide essential daily grazing.Allow the aquarium to mature thoroughly before stocking your colony. Clean surfaces in newly established tanks lack the biofilm and microscopic growth that provide essential daily grazing.^[1][4]

• 5 gal
• 10 gal
• 54 L
• 60 L
• 20 gal high
• 20 gal long
• 29 gal
• 112 L
• 40 gal breeder
• 180 L
• 55 gal
• 75 gal
• 240 L

Cherry shrimp water parameters

Maintain stable water conditions within a temperature range of 21–27 °C, pH 6.0–8.0, and general hardness between 5–15 dGH. For daily husbandry, keeping parameters near the centre of these ranges matches common cherry shrimp care standards.Maintain stable water conditions within a temperature range of 70–81 °F, pH 6.0–8.0, and general hardness between 5–15 dGH. For daily husbandry, keeping parameters near the centre of these ranges matches common cherry shrimp care standards.^[1][2][4]

Prepare all replacement water carefully, matching temperature and dissolved mineral levels before adding it to the tank. Treat your tap water appropriately to prevent chemical shock and sharp shifts during routine maintenance.Prepare all replacement water carefully, matching temperature and dissolved mineral levels before adding it to the tank. Treat your tap water appropriately to prevent chemical shock and sharp shifts during routine maintenance.^[1][4]

Feeding cherry shrimp

In an established planted aquarium, provide supplemental feedings every other day with dedicated shrimp pellets or granules. Dose only what the colony can clean up within two hours, and promptly siphon out any leftover food to safeguard water quality.In an established planted aquarium, provide supplemental feedings every other day with dedicated shrimp pellets or granules. Dose only what the colony can clean up within two hours, and promptly siphon out any leftover food to safeguard water quality.^[2][5]

Add variety by offering small slices of blanched courgette, spinach, or cucumber. Place foods in a shallow glass feeding dish so you can clear away uneaten vegetable remains after two hours without disturbing the substrate.Add variety by offering small slices of blanched courgette, spinach, or cucumber. Place foods in a shallow glass feeding dish so you can clear away uneaten vegetable remains after two hours without disturbing the substrate.^[2][5][1]

Cherry shrimp behaviour

Adult cherry shrimp reach an adult length of 3–3 cm and typically live for one to two years under aquarium care. Selective breeding has produced distinct colour forms like blue, yellow, and orange, but all share identical baseline habits and care requirements.Adult cherry shrimp reach an adult length of 1–1 in and typically live for one to two years under aquarium care. Selective breeding has produced distinct colour forms like blue, yellow, and orange, but all share identical baseline habits and care requirements.^[1][2]

Finding a clear, hollow shell on the substrate indicates normal moulting rather than a dead shrimp. Freshly moulted animals remain soft and vulnerable, often seeking sheltered hideouts for a few days while their new exoskeleton hardens.Finding a clear, hollow shell on the substrate indicates normal moulting rather than a dead shrimp. Freshly moulted animals remain soft and vulnerable, often seeking sheltered hideouts for a few days while their new exoskeleton hardens.^[1]

Cherry shrimp tank mates

Non-predatory snails make suitable tank mates because they graze biofilm alongside the colony. Non-predatory snails make suitable tank mates because they graze biofilm alongside the colony. Horned nerite snailsHorned nerite snails and and ramshorn snailsramshorn snails will not hunt adults or juveniles, provided you supply adequate supplementary food and stable mineral levels to support their shells. will not hunt adults or juveniles, provided you supply adequate supplementary food and stable mineral levels to support their shells.^[2]

Malaysian trumpet snailsMalaysian trumpet snails and and mystery snailsmystery snails are also peaceful companions. Keep an eye on overall snail reproduction when feeding, and ensure you leave sufficient space and extra rations for the bulkier mystery snails. are also peaceful companions. Keep an eye on overall snail reproduction when feeding, and ensure you leave sufficient space and extra rations for the bulkier mystery snails.^[1][2]

Keep cherry shrimp away from predatory fish. Avoid Keep cherry shrimp away from predatory fish. Avoid bettasbettas, which actively hunt small shrimp, as well as , which actively hunt small shrimp, as well as angelfishangelfish and and oscarsoscars, which view small invertebrates as prey., which view small invertebrates as prey.^[2][6]

Breeding cherry shrimp

Cherry shrimp reproduce entirely in freshwater without requiring brackish larval stages. Berried females carry their brood attached under the abdomen, regularly fanning the developing eggs with their pleopods to keep them clean and oxygenated.Cherry shrimp reproduce entirely in freshwater without requiring brackish larval stages. Berried females carry their brood attached under the abdomen, regularly fanning the developing eggs with their pleopods to keep them clean and oxygenated.^[2][4]

Maintain steady baseline water parameters rather than elevating the water temperature to force faster breeding. While heat accelerates maturation, it can shorten adult lifespan, and newly hatched shrimplets require abundant grazing surfaces and dense plant shelter to survive.Maintain steady baseline water parameters rather than elevating the water temperature to force faster breeding. While heat accelerates maturation, it can shorten adult lifespan, and newly hatched shrimplets require abundant grazing surfaces and dense plant shelter to survive.^[4]

Cherry shrimp health problems

Failed moulting occurs when a shrimp is unable to cast off its old exoskeleton, often dying trapped halfway through the shed. This is primarily caused by inadequate dietary minerals or unsuitable general hardness (GH). Test your GH levels, feed mineral-rich foods, and keep water changes consistent to prevent shedding issues.Failed moulting occurs when a shrimp is unable to cast off its old exoskeleton, often dying trapped halfway through the shed. This is primarily caused by inadequate dietary minerals or unsuitable general hardness (GH). Test your GH levels, feed mineral-rich foods, and keep water changes consistent to prevent shedding issues.^[1]

Scutariella are small ectosymbionts that present as tiny whitish worms protruding around the shrimp's rostrum between its eyes. They are typically introduced into the aquarium on newly acquired stock, and dense infestations can interfere with the shrimp's breathing organs. Quarantine and visually inspect new arrivals to prevent spreading them.Scutariella are small ectosymbionts that present as tiny whitish worms protruding around the shrimp's rostrum between its eyes. They are typically introduced into the aquarium on newly acquired stock, and dense infestations can interfere with the shrimp's breathing organs. Quarantine and visually inspect new arrivals to prevent spreading them.^[1][3]

Vorticella appears as pale, fuzzy colonial growth clinging around the head and gill margins. These ciliates become hazardous when heavy growth physically obstructs respiratory water flow. Prevent outbreaks by keeping the tank clean, siphoning out uneaten food promptly, and isolating suspect newcomers before adding them.Vorticella appears as pale, fuzzy colonial growth clinging around the head and gill margins. These ciliates become hazardous when heavy growth physically obstructs respiratory water flow. Prevent outbreaks by keeping the tank clean, siphoning out uneaten food promptly, and isolating suspect newcomers before adding them.^[1][3][5]

Male or female?

Adult females are typically larger, broader in the abdomen, and display deeper colouration than males. In translucent or lighter colour varieties, developing unfertilised eggs form a noticeable yellow patch known as a saddle behind the head before migrating underneath the abdomen.Adult females are typically larger, broader in the abdomen, and display deeper colouration than males. In translucent or lighter colour varieties, developing unfertilised eggs form a noticeable yellow patch known as a saddle behind the head before migrating underneath the abdomen.^[1][2]

Questions