Bloodfin tetra care guide

Bloodfin tetra tank size

Use a tank base at least 60 cm long and 30 cm wide for a small group of bloodfin tetras. Arrange the layout with planted cover and open swimming areas. Roots and bogwood can complement planted areas, but do not let decorations fill all the swimming space.Use a tank base at least 24 in long and 12 in wide for a small group of bloodfin tetras. Arrange the layout with planted cover and open swimming areas. Roots and bogwood can complement planted areas, but do not let decorations fill all the swimming space.^[1]

A tight-fitting cover is necessary because bloodfin tetras can jump. Floating plants give cover near the upper water, where this species spends time.A tight-fitting cover is necessary because bloodfin tetras can jump. Floating plants give cover near the upper water, where this species spends time.^[1]

• 5 gal
• 10 gal
• 54 L
• 60 L
• 20 gal high
• 20 gal long
• 29 gal
• 112 L
• 40 gal breeder
• 180 L
• 55 gal
• 75 gal
• 240 L

Bloodfin tetra water parameters

Target a temperature between 18 °C and 28 °C, noting that the fish is less colourful in cool water. Maintain overlapping care targets of pH 6.0–7.5 and hardness 3–15 dGH within their broader profile range of pH 6.0–8.0. Avoid sudden changes in these parameters.Target a temperature between 64 °F and 82 °F, noting that the fish is less colourful in cool water. Maintain overlapping care targets of pH 6.0–7.5 and hardness 3–15 dGH within their broader profile range of pH 6.0–8.0. Avoid sudden changes in these parameters.^[1]

Test water weekly; ammonia and nitrite should be zero. Change about one quarter of the water weekly with conditioned replacement water. Rinse filter media gently in removed aquarium water rather than chlorinated tap water to preserve the established bacteria, because chlorine can damage filter bacteria.Test water weekly; ammonia and nitrite should be zero. Change about one quarter of the water weekly with conditioned replacement water. Rinse filter media gently in removed aquarium water rather than chlorinated tap water to preserve the established bacteria, because chlorine can damage filter bacteria.^[2]

Feeding bloodfin tetras

Feed once a day and only the amount the fish finish within a few minutes, avoiding leftover food. Good-quality small flake or granules are a staple for bloodfin tetras. Small frozen or live daphnia and bloodworm add variety to their diet.Feed once a day and only the amount the fish finish within a few minutes, avoiding leftover food. Good-quality small flake or granules are a staple for bloodfin tetras. Small frozen or live daphnia and bloodworm add variety to their diet.^[2][1]

Bloodfin tetra behaviour

This species comes from the Paraná drainage in Brazil, Paraguay, and Argentina, living in streams and rivers with shaded vegetation. The planning typical adult length is 4.5 cm, with an adult standard length of 5.5 cm and a maximum of 5.6 cm reported.This species comes from the Paraná drainage in Brazil, Paraguay, and Argentina, living in streams and rivers with shaded vegetation. The planning typical adult length is 1.8 in, with an adult standard length of 2.2 in and a maximum of 2.2 in reported.^[1]

Maintain a group of at least six bloodfin tetras in total; other tetra species do not replace the bloodfin group. Bloodfin tetras may nip slow-moving or long-finned fish, so plan community companions around this tendency.Maintain a group of at least six bloodfin tetras in total; other tetra species do not replace the bloodfin group. Bloodfin tetras may nip slow-moving or long-finned fish, so plan community companions around this tendency.^[1]

Bloodfin tetra tank mates

Neon tetrasNeon tetras can work where water ranges overlap and both species have their own school. can work where water ranges overlap and both species have their own school. X-ray tetrasX-ray tetras are another small-characid option; allow space for both schools and watch for nipping, as bloodfins may nip slow-moving or long-finned fish. are another small-characid option; allow space for both schools and watch for nipping, as bloodfins may nip slow-moving or long-finned fish.^[1]

Bronze corydorasBronze corydoras can work if you provide a separate group, suitable bottom space, and sinking food. can work if you provide a separate group, suitable bottom space, and sinking food. Bristlenose plecosBristlenose plecos can also work; plan for adult bottom space and feed the catfish separately. can also work; plan for adult bottom space and feed the catfish separately.^[1]

Avoid Avoid oscarsoscars, as much smaller fish can be eaten by this predatory cichlid. Avoid , as much smaller fish can be eaten by this predatory cichlid. Avoid Jack DempseysJack Dempseys because their tankmates need to be too large to be prey. Separate because their tankmates need to be too large to be prey. Separate pea pufferspea puffers, which are not generally suited to a community and may lose food to vigorous companions., which are not generally suited to a community and may lose food to vigorous companions.^[5][6][7]

Breeding bloodfin tetras

Use a separate spawning tank with fine-leaved plants and gentle sponge filtration. Eggs are not adhesive. Remove adults after spawning because they can eat eggs.Use a separate spawning tank with fine-leaved plants and gentle sponge filtration. Eggs are not adhesive. Remove adults after spawning because they can eat eggs.^[1]

Eggs hatch in about 24 hours. After yolk-sac absorption, offer infusoria-sized food to the fry. Follow this initial diet with microworm or brine shrimp nauplii as the young develop.Eggs hatch in about 24 hours. After yolk-sac absorption, offer infusoria-sized food to the fry. Follow this initial diet with microworm or brine shrimp nauplii as the young develop.^[1]

Bloodfin tetra health problems

Ich is a freshwater parasite infection where salt-like white spots, rubbing, reduced appetite, and gill irritation are possible signs. Appearance alone does not confirm diagnosis. A 30-day quarantine for arrivals and separate or disinfected nets help prevent introduction of ich.Ich is a freshwater parasite infection where salt-like white spots, rubbing, reduced appetite, and gill irritation are possible signs. Appearance alone does not confirm diagnosis. A 30-day quarantine for arrivals and separate or disinfected nets help prevent introduction of ich.^[3]

Fin rot can cause fraying and red streaks followed by shrinking fins. This bacterial disease is encouraged by poor conditions and stress. Prevent avoidable fin rot by maintaining water quality and removing sources of injury or harassment, and seek assessment if fins deteriorate.Fin rot can cause fraying and red streaks followed by shrinking fins. This bacterial disease is encouraged by poor conditions and stress. Prevent avoidable fin rot by maintaining water quality and removing sources of injury or harassment, and seek assessment if fins deteriorate.^[4]

Fungal infection can appear as grey-white cottony growth on damaged skin when injury and environmental stress weaken the protective mucus. Smooth furnishings and gentle handling reduce injury risk, while good water quality reduces environmental stress. Cottony growth warrants prompt advice.Fungal infection can appear as grey-white cottony growth on damaged skin when injury and environmental stress weaken the protective mucus. Smooth furnishings and gentle handling reduce injury risk, while good water quality reduces environmental stress. Cottony growth warrants prompt advice.^[4]

Male or female?

Adult males are generally slimmer than females. Mature males also develop small hooks on some pelvic and anal fin rays.Adult males are generally slimmer than females. Mature males also develop small hooks on some pelvic and anal fin rays.^[1]

Questions